1. The weaving method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is characterized in that warp yarns and weft yarns are woven on a machine by adopting a double-warp single-weft configuration, wherein the yarn count of the warp yarns is Nm (80-120)/2-ply yarns, the yarn count of the weft yarns is Nm (40-60)/1 single yarn, the weft yarns comprise first weft yarns and second weft yarns, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to a ratio of 1:1, the first weft yarns are lycra yarn core-spun yarns, and the second weft yarns are cashmere single yarns.

2. The method for weaving the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to claim 1, wherein the content of lycra yarns in the first weft yarns is 6% -8%, preferably 7% -7.5%; the fineness of the Lycra chinensis filament is 20D-50D, and the drafting multiple is 2-4 times; preferably 30D-40D lycra yarn, with a draft factor of 2.5-3.

3. The method for weaving the stretch light and thin tweed made of pure cashmere according to claim 1, wherein the twist of the warp is (910-; the twist of the weft yarn is (800-840) T/M, and the twist coefficient is (110-120).

4. The method for weaving the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to claim 1, wherein the parameters of the weaving on the loom include: the warp and weft density (310-.

5. The method for weaving the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to claim 4, wherein the parameters of the weaving on the loom further include: the total number of warp threads on the machine is 6000-; the reed number is 75# -86 #.

6. The method for weaving the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein after the weaving on the machine, the post-finishing is further performed, and the post-finishing sequentially comprises raw finishing, first flat boiling, heat setting, milling, second flat boiling, drying, intermediate checking, well finishing, shearing, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and inspecting.

7. The weaving method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to claim 6, characterized in that the after-finishing has a shrinkage of 3.0% -3.5% and a width shrinkage of 12.5% -13.1%.

8. The method for weaving the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cashmere in the warp and weft is selected from the group consisting of white cashmere, fiber fineness 15.0-16.0um, and length 35-38 mm.

9. A pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed characterized in that the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is woven by the weaving method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. The pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to claim 9, wherein the finished product tightness of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is 105-110, the weft-warp ratio is 0.8-0.9, and the finished product rice weight is 240-260 g/m.

Background

Pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed belongs to a high-end product in worsted tatting fabrics. At present, spinning pure cashmere tweed is available in China, and is mainly used for manufacturing high-end shirts. At present, the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is not found at home.

In the prior art in China, pure cashmere worsted fabric with the yarn count of Nm100/2 is taken as an example, double-warp and double-weft are adopted for warp and weft yarns, namely, both warp yarns and weft yarns are plied yarns. The average length of the cashmere yarn is required to be more than 36mm, the dyeing and spinning difficulty is high, and only a few manufacturers can produce the cashmere yarn at present in China. The cashmere fiber is short, the high count pure cashmere yarn is spun, the yarn twist is large, the fabric produced by the yarn has clear texture, and the finished product has good body. The defects are that the grey cloth is hard, the finished cloth has insufficient soft and glutinous feeling, and the latitudinal elasticity and the ductility are not good.

In view of this, the invention is particularly proposed.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a method for weaving pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, which can realize light and thin products by adopting the configuration of double warps and single wefts, and the arrangement of the wefts not only ensures that physical indexes reach the standard, but also ensures the soft and glutinous feeling of the finished products.

The pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed provided by the invention has the characteristics of light weight, thinness, softness, good glutinous feeling, sufficient weft elasticity, good rebound resilience and the like.

The invention is realized by the following steps:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a method for weaving pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, wherein warp yarns and weft yarns are woven on a machine by adopting a double-warp single-weft configuration, wherein the yarn count of the warp yarns is Nm (80-120)/2-ply yarns, the yarn count of the weft yarns is Nm (40-60)/1 single yarn, the weft yarns comprise first weft yarns and second weft yarns, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to a ratio of 1:1, the first weft yarns are lycra yarn core-spun yarns, and the second weft yarns are cashmere single yarns.

In an alternative embodiment, the content of lycra filaments in the first weft yarns is 6% to 8%, preferably 7% to 7.5%; the fineness of the Lycra chinensis filament is 20D-50D, and the drafting multiple is 2-4 times; preferably 30D-40D lycra yarn, with a draft factor of 2.5-3.

In an alternative embodiment, the twist of the warp yarn is (910-; the twist of the weft yarn is (800-840) T/M, and the twist coefficient is (110-120).

In an alternative embodiment, the parameters of the upper weaving include: the warp and weft density (310-.

In an optional embodiment, the parameters of the upper weaving further include: the total number of pass on the machine is 6000-6300, and the reed number is 75# -86 #.

In an optional embodiment, after the weaving on the machine, an after-finishing is further performed, and the after-finishing sequentially comprises raw finishing, first flat boiling, heat setting, fulling, second flat boiling, drying, middle checking, well finishing, tweed shearing, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and finished product checking.

In an alternative embodiment, the after-treatment has a length reduction of 3.0% to 3.5% and a width reduction of 12.5% to 13.1%.

In an alternative embodiment, the cashmere in the warp and weft is selected from white cashmere, the fiber fineness is 15.0-16.0um, and the length is 35-38 mm.

In a second aspect, the invention provides a pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, which is woven by the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed weaving method according to any one of the foregoing embodiments.

In an optional embodiment, the finished product tightness of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is 105-110, the weft-warp ratio is 0.8-0.9, and the finished product rice weight is 240-260 g/m.

The invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the weaving method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, the yarn configuration of the traditional pure cashmere tweed is changed, double-warp single weft yarns are adopted, single yarns with the yarn count Nm (40-60)/1 are used as weft yarns, the light and thin product can be realized, and the rice weight of the finished product is not more than 250 g/m. The method limits the lycra core-spun yarn as a first weft yarn, the cashmere single yarn as a second weft yarn, and the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are arranged in a 1:1 alternating mode, so that the physical index is guaranteed to reach the standard, and the soft and glutinous feeling of a finished product is guaranteed. Meanwhile, the heat setting difficulty is reduced, and the probability that the color of the lower fabric is yellowed and the hand feeling is rough during high-temperature setting is reduced. The prepared pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is light and thin, good in soft and glutinous feeling, sufficient in latitudinal elasticity and good in rebound resilience.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings needed to be used in the embodiments will be briefly described below, it should be understood that the following drawings only illustrate some embodiments of the present invention and therefore should not be considered as limiting the scope, and for those skilled in the art, other related drawings can be obtained according to the drawings without inventive efforts.

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of a weave structure of a pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to an embodiment of the present application;

fig. 2 is an arrangement diagram of first weft and second weft of the pure cashmere elastic thin tweed according to the embodiment of the present application.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products available commercially.

The invention provides a method for weaving pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, which comprises the following steps:

and S1, weaving the warp and the weft on the machine by adopting a double-warp single-weft configuration.

The yarn count of the warp yarn is Nm (80-120)/2 strands of yarns, and for example, the yarn count can be: nm80/2, Nm84/2, Nm86/2, Nm90/2, Nm96/2, Nm100/2, Nm104/2, Nm106/2, Nm110/2Nm114/2, Nm116/2, Nm 120/2; the count of the weft yarn is Nm (40-60)/1 single yarn, and can be, for example: nm40/1, Nm44/1, Nm48/1, Nm50/1, Nm52/1, Nm54/1, Nm56/1, Nm58/1, Nm 60/1.

Compared with the conventional method that both the warp yarns and the weft yarns are the strand yarns, if the weft yarns are spun into the thicker elastic strand yarns, the finished product has larger meter weight and is not suitable for being used as a shirt. The spun yarn has more broken ends and extremely low production efficiency when spinning the elastic yarn with finer counts, particularly the elastic yarn with the number of Nm100/1 or more. Therefore, in the application, the yarn count of the weft yarn is designed into a single yarn of Nm (40-60)/1, and the weft yarn is designed into a single yarn, so that the production efficiency is improved, the fabric is lighter and thinner, and the weight of a finished product is favorably reduced.

Further, the weft yarns include first weft yarns and second weft yarns, which are alternately arranged in a 1:1 ratio. The weave structure of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is shown in figure 1, wherein numbers 1-8 represent the order of 1-8 heddles respectively, and the order of weft insertion of 1-4 wefts corresponding to the longitudinal direction is sequentially divided. The warp spots are denoted by "X", and the small boxes not marked with "X" represent weft spots. In fig. 1, a is a first weft and B is a second weft, and the first weft and the second weft are alternately arranged at a ratio of 1:1 (see fig. 2).

Specifically, the first weft yarn is lycra yarn core-spun yarn (specifically, core-spun yarn in which cashmere coats lycra yarn), and the second weft yarn is cashmere single yarn. If the weft yarn is all the lycra core-spun yarn, the tearing strength of the finished product cannot reach the standard. The first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to the ratio of 1:1, so that the physical indexes of the finished product reach the standard, and the soft and glutinous feeling of the finished product is guaranteed. The fabric is light and thin and has good weft elasticity.

In addition, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to the ratio of 1:1, so that the heat setting difficulty in subsequent after finishing is reduced. Usually, the lycra filaments are heated and shrunk greatly in a wet state, the width is difficult to control in the processing process, and a heat setting process is required to be adopted for keeping the width stable, wherein the heat setting temperature is 180-190 ℃. In order to ensure the dimensional stability of the finished product and reduce the shrinkage rate, two times of heat setting are generally adopted. The shrinkage of the lycra core-spun yarn in the weft direction is large, and the shrinkage of the normal cashmere single yarn is small. If the two yarns are arranged in a 1:1 alternating mode, the heat setting difficulty is reduced, and the width of a finished product can be controlled to meet the requirement through one-time heat setting.

Preferably, the lycra yarn content in the first weft yarns is 6% to 8%, preferably 7% to 7.5%, and may for example be: 7%, 7.2% and 7.4%, and the stretch yarn is 20D-50D lycra yarn with a draft multiple of 2.0-4 times. Preferably 30D-40D lycra yarn, with a draft factor of 2.5-3. The cashmere of warp and weft is selected from white cashmere, fiber fineness is 15.0-16.0um, and length is 35-38 mm.

In addition, the twist and the twist coefficient of the warp and the weft are limited, and the twist of the yarn of the domestic traditional Nm100/2 worsted cashmere tweed is as follows: 1000 by 980T/M, twist multiplier 100 by 139. The application adopts compact spinning and properly reduces the twist of the yarn, wherein the twist of the warp yarn is (910- & ltSUB & gt 930) & ltSUB & gt (950- & ltSUB & gt 970) T/M, and the twist coefficient is (91- & ltSUB & gt 94) & ltSUB & gt (133- & ltSUB & gt 138); the twist of the weft yarn is (800-.

The twist of the warp yarns may be, for example, 910X 950T/M, 915X 955T/M, 920X 960T/M, 925X 965T/M or 930X 970T/M. The twist factor may be 91 × 133, 91 × 134, 92 × 135, 93 × 137, for example. The twist of the weft yarn may be, for example, 800T/M, 810T/M, 820T/M, 830T/M or 840T/M. The twist multiplier may be, for example, 110, 114, 116, or 120.

After the spinning parameters are determined, the method also determines the parameters of the upper weaving: the warp and weft density (310-; the weaving shrinkage is 4.5-5.5% and the width shrinkage is 6.5-7.8%. Therefore, the total number of pass in the machine is 6000-6300, and the reed number is 75# -86 #.

S2 post-finishing process

The after-finishing sequentially comprises raw trimming, first flat boiling, heat setting, milling, second flat boiling, drying, intermediate detection, well trimming, milling, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and ironing and finished product inspection. The after-treatment shrinkage is 3.0-3.5% of long shrinkage and 12.5-13.1% of width shrinkage.

Compared with the conventional Nm100/2 tweed, the weaving shrinkage and the after-finishing shrinkage in the application are increased, and the tightness of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed provided by the application is favorably ensured.

In addition, the domestic after-finishing process flow of the traditional wool worsted elastic tweed sequentially comprises the following steps: raw trimming, singeing, primary flat boiling, primary heat setting, wool washing, secondary flat boiling, drying, intermediate detection, well trimming, wool shearing, secondary heat setting, softening, primary tank steaming, preshrinking, secondary tank steaming, pressing and finishing and inspection.

In the post-finishing process, the cashmere fibers are forced to be exposed on the woolen surface by adopting light fulling instead of washing, so that micro fluff is generated on the surface of the fabric, and the sufficient fluff feeling of the finished product is ensured, therefore, the finished fabric is softer in hand feeling and sufficient in glutinous feeling.

The tank steaming process ensures the woolen surface, the luster and the hand feeling of the fabric. The heat setting control width meets the requirements of finished products, and the stability of the sizes of the finished products is ensured. In the application, the width of the finished product can be controlled to meet the requirement only by adopting one-time heat setting. The post-finishing process of the present application mainly consists in the selection of process steps, wherein the process parameters of each step can be adjusted conventionally according to the product style, and therefore, the present application is not described in detail.

In addition, the invention also provides the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed which is woven on a machine by adopting the weaving method, the finished product tightness of the obtained pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is 105-110, the weft-warp ratio is 0.8-0.9, and the finished product rice weight is 240-260 g/m.

The features and properties of the present invention are described in further detail below with reference to examples.

Example 1

The embodiment provides a pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, and a preparation method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed comprises the following steps:

(1) determination of spinning parameters

The pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed comprises 100% of cashmere, Nm100/2 yarn count of warp, 920 x 960T/M of twist and 92 x 135 of twist coefficient; the yarn count of the weft yarn is Nm52/1 single yarn, the twist of the weft yarn is 820T/M, and the twist coefficient is 114.

The weft yarns comprise first weft yarns and second weft yarns, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to the ratio of 1:1, the first weft yarns are lycra core-spun yarns, and the second weft yarns are cashmere single yarns. The content of Lycra silk in the first weft yarn is 7.2%, the fineness of Lycra silk is 40D, and the drafting multiple is 3 times.

(2) Determination of on-board parameters

The density of the warp and weft on the machine is 328 multiplied by 336 pieces/10 cm, and the width on the machine is 185 cm; the weaving shrinkage is 5.0% of long shrinkage and 7.0% of width shrinkage. The total number of the warps on the loom is 6044; reed number is 82 #.

(3) Determination of post-finishing Process

Raw trimming, first flat boiling, heat setting, wool milling, second flat boiling, drying, intermediate inspection, well trimming, wool shearing, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and ironing and finished inspection. The after-treatment shrinkage rate is 3.3 percent of medium length shrinkage and 12.8 percent of width shrinkage.

See table 1 for a specific product design specification table:

TABLE 1 product parameter design Table

Detecting the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed according to the following standards GB18401-2010(B type), FZ/T24009-2010 and GB/T29862-2013:

TABLE 2 finished product inspection table

Example 2

The embodiment provides a pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, and a preparation method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed comprises the following steps:

(1) determination of spinning parameters

The pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed comprises 100% of cashmere, Nm100/2 yarn count of warp, 910 multiplied by 950T/M of twist and 91 multiplied by 134 of twist coefficient; the yarn count of the weft yarn is Nm54/1 single yarn, the twist of the weft yarn is 840T/M, and the twist coefficient is 114.

The weft adopts only the first weft, namely the lycra core-spun yarn, the content of lycra in the weft is 7.0 percent, the fineness of lycra is 30D, and the drafting multiple is 2.5 times.

(2) Determination of on-board parameters

The density of the longitude and latitude on the machine is 316 multiplied by 338 pieces/10 cm, and the width on the machine is 192 cm; the weaving shrinkage is 5.5% of long shrinkage and 6.3% of width shrinkage. The total warp number of the loom is 6068, the reed number: 79 #.

(3) Determination of post-finishing Process

Raw trimming, first flat boiling, first heat setting, milling, second flat boiling, drying, intermediate inspection, well trimming, milling, second heat setting, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and inspecting. The after-treatment shrinkage is 3.1% and the web shrinkage is 12.5%.

Example 3

The embodiment provides a pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed, and a preparation method of the pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed comprises the following steps:

(1) determination of spinning parameters

The pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is characterized in that warp yarns are 100% cashmere, yarn count of the warp yarns is Nm110/2 strand yarns, twist is 960 multiplied by 1000T/M, and twist coefficient is 93 multiplied by 138; the yarn count of the weft yarn is 50Nm/1 single yarn, the twist of the weft yarn is 800T/M, and the twist coefficient is 113.

The weft yarns comprise first weft yarns and second weft yarns, the first weft yarns and the second weft yarns are alternately arranged according to the ratio of 1:1, the first weft yarns are lycra core-spun yarns, and the second weft yarns are cashmere single yarns. The content of Lycra silk in the first weft yarn is 7.2%, the fineness of Lycra silk is 40D, and the drafting multiple is 3 times.

(2) Determination of on-board parameters

The density of the warp and weft on the machine is 336 multiplied by 334 pieces/10 cm, and the width of the machine is 187 cm; the weaving shrinkage is 5.5% of long shrinkage and 7.4% of width shrinkage. The total number of the upper warps is 6282; reed number is 84 #.

(3) Determination of post-finishing Process

Raw trimming, first flat boiling, heat setting, wool milling, second flat boiling, drying, intermediate inspection, well trimming, wool shearing, softening, first tank steaming, preshrinking, second tank steaming, pressing and ironing and finished inspection. The after-treatment shrinkage rate is 3.5% of medium length shrinkage and 13.1% of width shrinkage.

Comparative example 1: the warp threads selected in this comparative example were Nm100/2 ply yarns, and the first weft threads and the second weft threads were alternately arranged in a 1:1 ratio.

Comparative example 2: the warp yarn selected in this comparative example is Nm100/2 ply yarn and the weft yarn is single lycra core spun yarn.

Comparative example 3: the warp yarns selected for this comparative example were Nm110/2 ply yarns, with the first and second weft yarns arranged alternately at a 1:1 ratio.

Comparative example 4: the warp threads selected in this comparative example were Nm100/2 ply yarns, and the first weft threads and the second weft threads were arranged in a 2:1 arrangement or a 1:2 arrangement, respectively.

Corresponding cloth is obtained according to the longitude and latitude arrangement of the comparative examples 1-4, and the inventor finds that: the finished cloth of comparative example 1 has soft hand feeling, enough weft elasticity and easily controlled breadth, and is suitable for mass production.

Comparative example 2 the width of the test cloth on the machine is large, the width is difficult to control, the after-finishing needs two times of heat setting, the weft tearing strength of the finished product is 7CN-9CN, the physical index is unqualified, and the test cloth is not suitable for mass production.

In comparison example 3, the number of warps is high, the broken ends on the spinning frame are more, and the hair of the grey cloth is more. The warp yarn count is reduced, the weft yarn count is improved, the light weight of a finished product can be guaranteed, and the method is suitable for mass production.

Comparative example 4, in the weaving of example 1, the on-machine test was carried out, the two weft yarns were not arranged alternately according to 1:1, and the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn were arranged respectively according to 2:1 or 1:2, and the test found that the gray fabric had a rain-like weft, and the surface of the finished product was uneven, and the quality of the finished product could not be guaranteed.

In summary, the weaving method of the cashmere elastic light and thin tweed changes the yarn configuration of the traditional cashmere tweed, adopts double-warp single weft yarns, and adopts single yarns with the yarn count of Nm (40-60)/1 as weft yarns, so that the product is lighter and thinner. The method limits the lycra core-spun yarn as a first weft yarn, the normal cashmere single yarn as a second weft yarn, and the first weft yarn and the second weft yarn are arranged in a 1:1 alternating mode, so that the physical index is guaranteed to reach the standard, and the soft and glutinous feeling of a finished product is guaranteed. Meanwhile, the heat setting difficulty is reduced, and the width of the finished product is easily controlled to meet the requirement. The prepared pure cashmere elastic light and thin tweed is light and thin, good in soft and glutinous feeling, sufficient in latitudinal elasticity and good in rebound resilience.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention, and various modifications and changes may be made by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.